The Good Dish Gail Simmons' Not-Your-Mama’s Horseradish Brisket

Heat the oven to 350 F with the rack in the middle. Season the brisket all over with 1 tablespoon salt and 2 teaspoons pepper. In a large roasting pan set over 2 burners, heat the oil until hot but not smoking.

Add the brisket and cook over medium-high heat, turning, until browned all over, 5 to 7 minutes per side. Transfer the brisket to a rimmed baking sheet, fat-side up.

Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the pan. Add the onions and half of the garlic and cook over medium heat until softened about 3 minutes.

Add the carrots, parsnips, and celery and season with 1/4 teaspoon each salt and pepper. Continue cooking until the vegetables are browned, about 6 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the vegetables to a plate; set aside.

Add the wine to the pan and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook, scraping up browned bits from the bottom of the pot, for 1 minute. Return the brisket to the pan, fat-side up.

Add the broth and bay leaves and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Cover the pan tightly with the extra-wide foil, sealing the edges; transfer to the oven and braise for 2 hours.

Remove the pan from the oven, then carefully loosen and remove the foil. Scatter the reserved vegetables and the potatoes around the brisket. Reseal the pan tightly with the foil, return to the oven, and braise until the brisket is tender, about 1 hour more.

Meanwhile in a small bowl, stir together the mustard, ¼ cup of the horseradish, and the remaining garlic.

Carefully loosen and remove the foil and spread the horseradish mixture over the top of the brisket. Return to the oven and cook, uncovered, until the top is browned, about 20 minutes.

Transfer the brisket to a carving board and loosely cover with foil to keep warm. Remove and discard the bay leaves. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the vegetables to a serving platter and loosely cover with foil to keep warm.

Pour the juices from the pan into a fat separator and let stand until the fat rises to the surface. Pour the juices into a small saucepan, discard the fat. (If you don’t have a fat separator, pour the liquid into a bowl and let cool completely, then refrigerate overnight or freeze until the fat solidifies. Skim off and discard the fat.)

Gently warm the juices over low heat. Whisk in the remaining 1/4 cup of horseradish, then season to taste with salt and pepper.

Thinly slice the brisket against the grain and transfer to the platter with the vegetables. Spoon a little of the warm pan juices over the brisket and pass the remaining juices at the table.